Lilies.

540Kazzthespazz.com | Pattern Magic

I’m super excited to use this challenge to sew up a dress from the Pattern Magic Stretch book (in Japanese) ^ that’s my most scariest Halloween look haha! No, no this is not a costume I will wear this lots and  l o t s; on a bright day I can throw on black and be happy and on the darkest days I can wear the brightest colours and feel happy too.

So, if you have the book this dress is on page 18-19. The dress was super easy to draft up. I scanned the line art from the book and placed it in Adobe Illustrator and re-drew the diagram, I then scaled it up to my size and printed it out on brown paper on the big digital printer at work. I do this with all downloaded patterns so I don’t have to sit there sticking pieces of A4 paper together to make up the full scale pattern. This option is a total time-saver.

Kazzthespazz.com | Pattern Magic
I made some minor changes during the cutting stage so the dress didn’t look too sack-like adding more shape to the waistline for when I want to wear the dress long you see, this Avant Garde dress has four armholes! The second set sit at your hips, you can see this on the very top left photo. Wearing this dress long obviously requires some sort of undergarment, I’m wearing a lycra spanx dress that sucks all your bits in. I guess the second set of armholes can act as fake pockets too.

Kazzthespazz.com |  Pattern MagicI invested in some good quality fabric for this dress-Premium Ponte De Roma 85% Poly, 11% Rayon & 4% Spandex. It’s perfect, it’s nice and heavy too so it hangs just right and I’m confidant a bum imprint wont stretch it’s way through the fabric after a long sitting- so with that little investment I wanted to make sure that all of my finishings: hems, facings etc were to the best to my sewing ability. The thing with stretch fabric is that rippling that can occur when sewing the pieces together. I did some research and made adjustments to my overlocker and used cotton tape on the shoulder seams, and those hip armholes, I didn’t want to risk it and have that rippling effect spoil the garment. I could of used ribbing to sew a band around the hip armholes but was thinking it would jut out and look strange and mess with the lines when I wore it long so I chose to do a facing instead, I turned the facing under lightly pressing down making sure not to scold the fabric. I then loosely hand stitched the facing down picking up tiny bits of the fabric hoping that it didn’t show on the right side, it’s not too bad, my question to you is, can you use some sort of vliesofix fusible web that stretches and moves with the fabric for this process and not have it show on the right side? what would you’ve done? I guess lining the dress could be an option too? The facings okay I’m just wondering if it could be better, store-bought quality better!
Kazzthespazz.com | Pattern Magic
When I tried this on using the shorter version the back was shorter than the front I knew this when I cut it out I didn’t want to cut off the excess just incase- lucky I didn’t, I needed an extra 25cm so back to Spotlight I went. I used the remainder of the cotton tape on that back joining seam fearing that ripple effect, it certainly helped. I also purchased a twin stretch-knit needle for my machine using up the Gutermann Polyester thread on all of the hems. I sure am happy with the  professional looking finish on it.

Kazzthespazz.com | Pattern Magic
A white background show’s this dress off best. Black is so hard to photograph.

Here is last years Halloween dress which I still wear to this very day. Love it!

I’ll call this one Lilies from Bat for Lashes new release-The Haunted Man, it makes me cry.

Happy Halloween.

The Facts

Fabric | Premium Ponte De Roma

Pattern | Pattern Magic-Japanese version
Year | contemporary
Notions | For sewing!  Twin needle, Polyester thread, cotton tape
Time to complete | about 3 hours & the Project Runway Finale. I really LOVED Fabio’s collection. What a talent, who did you like?
First worn | for these photos and wore it into town the next day.
Wear again? Sure, I love it!
Total price | $40

 

Author

Kazzthespazz

Eclectic, fun loving seamstress sewing to the beat of her own drum.

18 Comments

  1. You know I already looked at this on your blog, but I have to comment again: super cool. I love the idea of multiple arm holes, and it seems like the kind of thing that you could manipulate and use in the future for other projects.

    One of the first things I made when I went back to sewing was a black ponte dress, and I remember thinking, “Knits aren’t so difficult. What is everyone on about?”. haha. Then I tried a cheap nasty knit a knew better.

    • Thanks Vicki, once I spent a lot of time on a dress made from a cheap knit and it just buckled and twisted out of shape, so it’s good to learn from your mistakes. I’ve seen this dress made in a cheaper knit and it confirmed that the Ponte was the way to go.

      Silly typo up there errr *confident must use spell check.

  2. This is fascinating. I love the long look best, but I love the shape of the shorter version. So clever. And I love your hair and the photos. Perfect!

  3. This is fascinating. I love the long look best, but I love the shape of the shorter version. So clever. And I love your hair and the photos. Perfect! Oh, and FYI, I’m going to model a drummer after you in my story, so don’t be weirded out if you see yourself on my “So I Won’t Forget” Pinterest board. It’s where I’m putting inspiration photos. :)

  4. I’ve always been fascinated by the origami-like designs that seem to come out of Japanese designers (I’m sure there are others that I don’t know about, I just haven’t seen them!). This is SUPER COOL and I can see making it with re-cycled sweaters… Where can I find this book? I’ll check out Amazon unless you tell me otherwise : )

  5. The clean lines of when you wear the dress long are fantastic but the way the extra fabric creates roses around the neckline when worn short is just plain clever.

  6. I particularly like the longer version. The whole idea of it is very clever. You did a nice job with the sewing, and seams. You say you used a double needle? Is that an attachment for your sewing machine? I’d love to know if I could do that on my Pfaff. Great photos, with just the right amount of scary! Glad we made the cue this week aren’t you?

    • I’m glad, I kinda got a bit worried?

      The twin needle you can purchase for any machine, no attachment, look at the needles when you go shopping next, they give your knits a professional finish. I like the longer version too.

      • Isn’t it odd…when we don’t show up when we think we might it’s like the cute boy that said he’d call and doesn’t…until three days later : ) I’m glad you guys finally showed up too!! I was worried!

  7. Very cool! I have the Pattern Magic 1 book, but haven’t yet tried any of the projects. I did read through it, and it’s great to see you making something out of Pattern Magic 3. Love the versatility! And, I have stretch jersey + a twin needle and cannot wait to use it for something!

    Lovely job as always, Kazz!

  8. I love this dress and I love how you styled it! I have Pattern Magic Book 1 too, but haven’t tried anything from it yet.

  9. Oh Kazz, you cannot stop pulling out of the bag ! amazing

  10. I absolutely love this dress. I have one of those books but I’m not sure which one. So, anyway, I love the dress but I gotta say that your hair looks amazing! makes me want to cut all mine off so I can wear it like that.

  11. I was fascinated reading about the detailing and advice on getting quality knits and cotton tape on shoulders etc. Love both looks, and though your legs are fabulous, still like the longer version slightly more…..and your hair is brilliant! You’re a modern-day Siouxsie Sioux.

  12. This is such a you dress! Fabulous! Do you love Zambezi?

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