Hot! The “Ikat Truffle” Dress

The Facts
Fabric: under 3 yards ikat print rayon challis from ?,1/2 yard white muslin for bodice lining
Pattern: Colette Truffle from The Colette Sewing Handbook
Year: contemporary
Notions: invisible zip
Time to complete: Lost count. A week.
First worn: 6/24
Wear again: sure
Total cost: about $36

I don’t pay much attention to trends.  I’ve always been hopelessly out-of-step with popular culture.  I am, however, influenced and inspired by what I see other people wearing around me, and the streets of New York are always stylish if not necessarily trendy.  I’ve been seeing a lot of ikat and ankara type prints around.  I suspected they might already be over, so I was relieved “bold ethnic prints” made Mena’s trend list last week.  Ever since this rayon challis fabric arrived, I’ve been trying to figure out what to do with it.  I ordered it for a specific project, but, as happens with most of my online fabric purchases, that match didn’t work out as planned.  Lately I’d been leaning toward a maxi dress, thinking I would extend the Truffle skirt to the floor.  But the contrast of the colors– not so much the print itself–  made the print look too overwhelming head-to-toe.  Luckily, both maxis and minis seem to be on trend.  I guess.  I thought midi-skirts were on trend too?  Anyways, the Truffle length is mini enough for me.

Colette patterns are a major undertaking for me since I’m not the body type Sarai Mitnick designs for and the styles are usually quite fitted.  I did an SBA on the flat pattern and two muslins later I was satisfied.  On the other hand, I was filled with regret about my Apple sundress from last week.  I kind of ignored some major bagginess in the bodice that I figured out how to fix in the Truffle muslin.  It’s possible to fix the Apple dress, but I don’t know if I have it in me to unpick the lovely lining and get cracking.

This Truffle is looser and flowier through the waist and a lot easier to wear than I imagined, even if I do have to wear a slip under the thin rayon challis.  The bodice, lined with white cotton muslin, has just the right amount of structure.  I even like the print better now that it’s made up as a dress.  She debuted at a mermaid-themed kid’s birthday party, where she received due attention from the birthday girl’s talented mom and a couple of her sewing and knitting friends.  Before the party we managed to get a few photos without my daughter waving her mermaid wand (?) and posing in front of my dress.




Lee is a highly educated stay at home mom with a lot of projects. She lives in New York City.


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  1. You make such lovely dresses! I love the print and honestly Lee you are one of my favorites style wise on Sew Weekly. You are you and it shows.

  2. It’s so pretty!!! Your little mermaid looks exactly like you!
    I have a Colette pattern to tackle soon. I was worried about potential bagginess. Your success is giving me courage!

  3. So summery and fresh. Love the print and the mermaid!

  4. I like the way the front pattern Of the fabric Goes at a diagonal against the horizontal pattern of the rest of the dress. The color and the print is very intriguing. So that’s called Ikat? I just learned something new. Thanks for sharing the Truffle. I have the book, and I need to make this.

  5. Hi Lee, great job on centering the fabric pattern on the bodice. Beautiful color and looks wonderful on.

  6. You choose the best fabrics I just love this one Lee; again, the perfect union between pattern and fabric choice. LOVE IT!

  7. Great dress! I love the fabric and the way the print falls diagonally on the ruffle/overlay of the skirt.

  8. Nice work with the ikat, Lee. This is one of my favorite Truffles — the fabric’s print looks amazing as an asymetric flounce thingy. Oh, and well done on the bodice fit…your refinements are great –your beautiful figure is enhanced by the custom fit. You’ve made Sarai’s design look made-for-you…which is the very point of pattern alterations.

  9. I love Ikat’s but never use them for myslef, don’t know why. Your version is delightful : ) Now I can keep your dress in the back of my mind for inpsiration in the future.

  10. I love your dress, the colors are my faves. Too funny, I clicked your link and realized we have a six-degrees thing going on– my husband is friends with the party’s hosts! The world is smaller every day…

  11. Best truffle I’ve seen!!!! I love it. Looks fab on you. Love how the print changes direction on the skirt front.

  12. The dress looks so awesome in person, and I’m so glad you and your daughter came to the party!

  13. You are too kind! Thank you. . . before this week gets away from me.

  14. I have to agree with Casey, love this truffle. It even manages to not be outshined by that cute mermaid, and that is a feat to be admired.