The “Pinky” Pants

(Worn with Lacewing Top, a Hack, cotton and nylon lace)

Facts: The “Pinky” Pants
Fabric: Very solid, plushy pink “no-wale” corduroy, $AUD 8/m.
Pattern: Self-drafted
Year: Contemporary
Notions: 7″ zip, trouser hook and bar
Time to complete: 6-7 hours, including carving out the seamlines “just so.”
First worn: 29th April 2012
Wear again? Yes- I like the way they turned out, and they fit well into my wardrobe.

Total Cost: under $20

Pink! I probably should make something pretty and pink, like a fluffy dress or something girly.   But I knew when I saw this week’s challenge it would be Pinky Pants week.  (In fact, my last 4 Sew Weekly Contributions were pink….!) I picked up this stretch “no-wale” cord on sale a few months ago, intending to make some winter pants from them.  The weather just turned chilly and I realized I threw out my old, comfy, ratty warm corduroys at the end of last winter.  And rightly so, but I don’t have any warm pants!

I drafted the design inspired by the seaming I noticed on some Burda pants.  The curved back yoke runs into the CF “princess” seams on the front, I like that.   I added circular patch pockets (front patches are my favorites!) but I think they break up the design too much so they may have to go. They’re only basted on, which allows me to wear them for a few days to see if I like them- if I don’t, the basting comes out very easily.  Do you ever find you need to “test drive” a design feature before you know for sure if it works?  I do it all the time.

I spent some little time converting my “woven” pants block to stretch, but I got there in the end.  It never occurred to me to try before but since I receive a lot of requests for how to do it, I thought I should work it out properly.   With skinny-leg stretch pants, I think the key is to lower the back crotch slightly, bring in the side and inseams equally, and stretch the back inseam within an inch of its life. (Compared to less-fitted woven trousers.) The Pinky Pants were a test to be sure those alterations would work for converting a woven pants block to stretch.  I plan to make a few more similar pairs of pants to perfect the technique. (And to fill a big BIG hole in my wardrobe!)

seaming detail... double top-stitched seams matched at the side seam...

That said, this pair still has a few wrinkles.  Part of that is because I’ve been wearing them for two days straight!  They’re so comfy I can’t bear to take them off.  I console myself over the rest of the wrinkles by comparing my fit to RTW fit, and also because I have an idea about how to stretch that back inseam and keep it stretched on my next pair, which should result in even fewer butt-wrinkles.  I’ll definitely write more about the process as it happens, but for now I’m terribly pleased to have a very useful (and comfortable!) pair of pale pink cords.

Yep, I was drinking from a pure mountain brook. It was delicious. And my crack wasn't hanging out.

(The best part?  The super-high waistline.  I love this height, been wearing them for years solely because I can bend over, stretch, move and *live* without anyone spotting my panties, my muffin tops, or my crack.  They feel very secure, so much so I can forget about my clothing.  That’s always my main fitting goal, because if I’m aware of my clothes, I act weird.  If I forget the clothes, I’m just me.)

 

Author

StephC

Stephanie mothers, writes, and teaches sewing in Brisbane, Australia. She blogs about sewing, drafting, vintage style and sustainability at 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World.

18 Comments

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  1. This shade of pink is really lovely and the pants fits you so well. Oh and did i say I love your blouse too?

    • Thanks, Tiffany. :) This cord fabric rocks my world, I’d go get more of it if I didn’t already have three colors.. ;)

  2. These turned out really well! Hooray for no-crack pants!

  3. ahh! have you made a pattern to share? I want it!

    • I can’t even begin to think about trying to make a stretch pants pattern that would work for any backside other than my own. I wish!

  4. Words can not express how much in awe I am of you drafting and making your own trousers………..AND them fitting THAT well. Stunning. As is the pose perched precariously on that rustic fence. Are you a sewing Jedi Master?

    • Aw… Thank you, Tempest! I *wish* I were a Jedi… But this is one of my mantras: “Try not. Do… or do not. There is no try.”

      I do draft trousers for others, too…

  5. Wow! I am so impressed by anyone who even sews trousers, let alone drafts them themselves, and makes them look so cool. I can only dream of pant hiding, muffin top concealing no-crack trousers. You are truly amazing!

    • oh- Thanks, Tara! Mostly the trick is a super high, non-bulky waistband methinks. And a stretched out upper back inseam. Definitely. :)

  6. So in love with these pants! I had to read every word and then check out all of your links. You have inspired me to give it a go. I admire how well they fit and I really like the high waist. Thanks for sharing.

    • Awesome, Barbara- that’s what it’s all about: sharing the inspiration and motivation! I’m so pleased! :)

  7. I’m with Barbara on this one! I’ve been contemplating making some higher-waisted pants for the reason you list (crack is whack, man!) but kinda lacked “real” inspiration (a lot of the pictures I find are all model thin girls… I am not model thing and have a hard time envisioning what curves and a high waist look like). These pants are amazaballs!

    • Bahahaha- crack is whack… Are you calling me fat? ;) I know what you mean, but I think they’re way way way more flattering on greater-than-stick-thin body shapes than low rise or even mid rise… It’s my opinion, but it does keep everything tucked together and out of the way, if you know what I mean…

  8. Wowsa! Pink, corduroy, high waste! You created my dream pants! :D They look lovely and it really flatters you, thank you for sharing!

  9. Stephanie, these pants look fantastic on you! I love your dedication to solving sewing questions. I’m taking notes on all all the technical info. Not sure I totally get what you did to stretch the back inseam enough or why that’s exactly necessary. I’m sure it will be become clearer if I give it a go myself; it always does. Enjoy gallivanting about in your happy pants.

    • I might explain it better when I can put it into words…. Ever understand something on an intuitive level, but not necessarily in a way you can easily communicate? That’s what happens when I run sewing experiments… Of course, it’s one thing to be able to *do* something, it’s another to teach it…